from Steve’s original post:
“On the way, we were treated to thrilling vistas: God’s Window, Blyde River Canyon (third largest in the world), and Striidom Tunnel. Words won’t do any of the justice. I encourage you to look them up on line, and know that your boys took it all into today. When young people are impressed by landscape, you know it’s got to be good.”
Nelson Mandela asks his fellow South Africans to do 67 minutes of service on his birthday. With this concert tour, KSB set out to do 67 minutes of musical service in every city. One of the ways we’re accomplishing our goal is to bring our music to people who don’t have the means to travel to a formal venue and enjoy a scheduled concert.
Our wonderful PR and recruitment chair Angela was to arrive in South Africa a few days before we were to arrive in the Kruger area. So I asked her to dig around the nearby city of Hazyview and see if she could make some connections with the locals. Did she ever! Special thanks to her for her terrific scouting, which resulted in two special singing opportunities on Sunday.
The day began at 5am. We dressed warmly and boarded our open-air vehicles for our third game drive. In addition to amazing game sightings, we were treated to an African sunrise – beautiful! This was on the heels of the an African sunset on the previous day’s game drive, and the day before that, the most magnificent full moon rise you can imagine. The weather has been gorgeous here, especially for winter. We’ve been spoiled with relatively moderate temperatures, no rain, and clear skies for breathtaking astrological viewing. Have I mentioned the stargazing? Millions of them have been twinkling above us at night. On my night drive jeep, we shut the lights of the vehicle down so that we were in total darkness except for the shimmering points above us. A sight to behold – unfathomable really, just how small we are in the universe.
After breakfast we headed to a hotel in Hazyview where we sang for folks enjoying an outdoor Sunday brunch. It was one of these unique concert settings that, with some space and programming creativity, provides for an intimate, charming performance. We moved about the venue, and luckily no boys fell in the pool, although there was one close call. (Me! – the boys would have paid to see that)
The audience was an entirely privileged, white South African audience. It’s important that we sing for all kinds of audiences while we are in the Rainbow Nation. When I speak about our purpose here to a white audience, I make it clear we are not here to sit in judgment of their past. After all, we have our own sad history of race in our country. Our journey to equality for all Americans no matter their walk of life is one we’re still on. We are simply here to marvel at this great man who personifies tolerance, freedom for all, and peace. When we sang “I need you to survive,” a few boys went to each and every table. I pointed out that it’s a song that was written in response to September 11th and, as we approach the 10th anniversary of that sad day, we dedicate this song to all those who lost their lives, those who saved lives, and those around the world that stood with us in those dark days. There were not many dry eyes.
View the Photo Gallery on Flickr: Hazyview – First Half
After the concert the boys were treated to a sumptuous lunch. FYI: this was not the 67 minutes of service part of the day. This was the 67 minutes of a plate piled high of delicious food, followed by seconds, followed by thirds for some (Grads were in heaven), followed by dessert table you’d find at Le Bec Fin. On tours, it can be feast or famine. Seconds are not always a given, so you gotta fill up when you can.
To thank the owner of the hotel for his hospitality, the Chamber Choir made a small circle around his and his family’s table and sang “Prayer of the Children.” He wept, along with his family. He said that in the 50 years his family has owned the hotel, this was the most beautiful moment he had ever experienced. This is the power of music.
But the best part of the day was yet to come. We then headed out to a nearby township. It had a different feel than Galeshewe. More rural. More simple a lifestyle, if that’s even possible. The first image I saw was a not so small child sitting in a tiny bath tub having a wash in front of his house, waving at us with a big smile. It seemed like everyone in the township waved us in. It’s quite possible that this was the first time ever that two buses full of foreigners came thru their humble but spirited neighborhood.
We arrived at the local school, and a throng of folks appeared out of nowhere. Our venue – the courtyard of the school. We entered into the intimate, kraal-like, performance area singing one of our new South African pieces and the crowd positively beamed with biggest, brightest communal smile I’ve ever seen. South African women were ululating, and throughout the performance, they would spontaneously stand and dance in front of the boys in praise of our singing. At one point, one woman came at me with a chair over her head. I was ready to embrace whatever the tradition was that involved a chair, but was relieved to watch her simply sit down in it, do a kind of chair dance, and then promptly walk away. Another women who seemed like the matriarch of the community sat in front and sporadically got up and danced. Loved her. And I love watching the boys watching the audience as they sing. They beam as well, with smiles of total amazement at the joy with which these people not only receive our music, but make it with us. Smiles are not great for vowel unification, but it’s worth the trade off.
We opened the concert by all singing Nkosi Sikeleli and I’m quite sure every chaperone was crying by the end. After a few Americana pieces, which they absolutely loved, we were treated to some traditional dancers. We like to say that tour is a comprehensive education for the boys. Certainly it was an education for all of us when the boys “discovered” that it is “traditional” for traditional dancers to expose their breasts when they dance. (For disclosure: some boys also discovered during one of the game drives that baboons mate freely in the open 🙂
We finished our “mini-performance” with a few more of our most spirited pieces, and then sang “Happy Birthday” to Nelson Mandela. As a finale, we launched into a medley of South African pieces, both old and new. I told the boys to brace themselves as we broke into Shosholoza. Sure enough it was ubuntu pandemonium. I keep thinking we can’t reach a new high singing this song, but every time we sing it with black South Africans, time stands still in musical sublimity.
As we walked off singing and waving, the crowd followed us. This was the ‘Beatles’ tour moment that I always, for the boys, hope for. That moment where they feel like rock stars. Because in that moment, in the hearts of these people, they are rock stars in the best possible sense. South Africans of all ages were high-fiving and hugging and kissing your sons as we pulled away. Our new friends cheered us on as we pulled out, and once again a bitter-sweetness pervaded the buses. I’m sure not every boy could articulate it, but I sense that on some level they all grasp the irony: boundless joy amid devastating poverty.
Thanks again to Angela for putting the day together. And profound thanks to each and every adult on this tour. They’re all working hard to keep your boys safe and give them this extraordinary experience. I knew the trip had the potential to be life-changing, but one never knows how things will turn out. It’s everything I had hoped for and more.
More later…
Saturday, July 16th was the boys’ first full day in Kruger. They rehearsed and went on an evening safari. Below is what they had to say about what they saw, but here is the day in pictures:
On my first safari game drive, I saw…
…two zebras necking. I did fine them because there is no romance on tour.
Mr. Fisher
…a billion Malibu [uhm, Sean? wrong Chevy] , a lonely lion and it was so crazy Son and we saw the eyes of a supposed lepoard. I saw the big four so far!!!! Sean
…6 lions, a lot of elephants, 2 leopards, some buffalos and a lot of impalas. Erik
…the cutest hyena cubs nursing and nuzzling their mother on the side of the road. Alex K
…impalas, an angry elephant, and lioness walking down the middle of the road like a boss. Also Mr. Hoenig. Nic H
…a bonanza of elephant crossing the road. One of them trumpeted at us. Austin
…a hyena, a large group of elephants, 6 or 7 lions, the eyes of a leopard, a hippo, a rhino, a buffalo, a vulture, and A PLETHORA OF IMPALA. (Inspired by Austin) “Handy” Andy V
…a rabbit. Dr. Eli
…some Lions, impala, and elephants… Oh my! Joe Mar.
…not much other than a white rhino, and plenty of glowing eyes. Spencer Sebastian
…our guide said that us spotting a leopard in the middle of the street was very rare. KaRon
…all of the big 5 animals on the first day, (elephant, rhino, leopard, lion and buffalo) Jason L
…green eyes in the distance, yellow eyes in a tree and munching in the dark. ROAR Minchonator
…hyena, 7 lionesses, at least 20 elephants, leopard eyes and so many impala GRRR Sam R
…impala on the left… Impala on the right… Impala on the left… Impala on the right… Clay
…leopards, lions, and buffalo oh my! Colman
…accidentally getting in between a group of elephants and one of the babies…. The mama and another started to rear back and trumpet with their trunks. By then, we knew we were in trouble and decided to get the heck out of dodge before we got into a hairier situation… haha it was fun! Andrew S
…a huge bird was perched on top of a tall tree and was staring right at us. Max Ho.
…getting to hold the spotlight on the night ride, and spotting EVERYTHING.!!!! De’Vonte
…a male lion was trying to find its female partner to hunt, and we heard it growl.
Rawr Konstantin
…remembering how Fitz said we might not see any of the big 5. We saw at least 6 female lions. The best part was when we almost got rammed by an elephant. Nick T
… a Hyena nursing four Hyena pups about five feet away from the Jeep. Jack
…a group of 5 white rhinoceros standing less than 30 feet away from the jeep. James
…a group of impala across the street from two lions- Jeremy
… sooo many impala…and 5 lionesses on the prowl! Sam V
…a mother elephant and her baby. The mom almost charged at our jeep! Brett
…a lioness walking along the road. As we got closer, we saw that her fur was matted. Our tour guide said she was near death and looking for road kill. Mike Z
… a lioness taking a night time stroll on a road. Jesse
…a magic rabbit it was in the road and it took us to a magical place. Jelani
…a lioness walking down the road. Pedro
…all five of the big five, including the leopard. Josiah
… a female lion less than four feet away from the van. Noah S
… the same two lions three different times. Jason N
… three elephants, a mom and her two babys Matt M (Justin Beiber)
… two hyenas with three babies less than a yard away. Ethan W
… two hippos nudging each other. Adam S.
… all of the big five in the first day. Theo
… a VERY angry hippo. Zack
… a very angry elephant that almost charged us, so we quickly drove away. Lol Patrick
… cute little hyena pups that kept yipping. Hunter
…a lioness walking down the road. Max Hal.
…a leopard. Malcolm
… a large male leopard walking down the road. Joey Magg.
… an elephant and it almost charged us. Cole S
…impala on the left, impala on the right, on the left, on the right… Laurie H
…baboons with adorable babies riding on their backs! Kidder E
…me——-Elephant. End. Adam B.W.
…17 elephants. Simultaneously. Thomas F.
…two elephants were several feet from our van, and the driver told us that they could easily flip the jeep. Andrew Po.
…a family of four hippos swimming in the river. Thomas C.
…animals that didn’t look like they did in “The Lion King.” Jeffrey S.
…a charging elephant that wanted to flip the Jeep. Nicholas K.
…the beauty and power of nature. Sam P.
…an African Gray Heron—similar to the North American Blue Heron in shape and name. Torsten O.
…a Leopard disappearing into the brush. Ben H.
…the jackrabbit that wouldn’t get out of the way of our jeep for like 2 miles. Silly rabbit, roads are for cars! =P Dean B.
…the leopard that was watching me from a tree. Andrew Pi.
…a little gray bunny who stayed in the road in front of our car, and led us to a family of Rhinos. Isaiah P.
…monkeys fighting in the street with their little baby on their back. Mike P.
…15 elephants walking across the road and then eating branches on the trees. Deis
…nursing hyena mamma and her three squealing babies… loved when she got up to shake them off and one dangled for a few feet before she walked away. Mrs. O
…a kingfisher who posed for pictures while sitting on the railing of a bridge. Mrs. Case
…watching six hippos emerge from the grass to take a dip just after moonrise. Anne V
…a herd of elephants eating grass with little elephants too. Eric B
…seeing a hyena on the side of the road. Tai J
…seeing a lion walking next to us on the side of the road Noah G
…red eyes that everyone thought was a leopard but was, in fact, a bush baby. Josh B
…when an infant elephant came behind our open air vehicle, trumpeted, stomped and was almost about to charge us Tom K
…finding the hippopotamuses in the brushy grass. Nick V
… an orange moonrise so bright, we all thought it was the sun. Jimmy P.
…being surrounded by an entire herd of elephants. And the matriarch stopping in the middle of the road so our vehicle couldn’t move. Chris G
…seeing a baby baboon riding on its mother’s back was the highlight. It was hugging the mother and just watching our jeep. Alexis Paolini
We arrived in Piet Retief by bus from Drakensberg an hour later than expected. This made for mad dash to our hostel, where we had to change and be at the venue ready to sing in an hour’s time. Thanks to our terrific staff and army of chaps, it was clock work. The boys actually got off the bus, found their rooms, got dressed, and got back on the bus in silence. Scary. As I’ve said many times, this sort of challenge is what I love about live performance and especially concert tours. Like in life itself, nothing goes smoothly, if something goes wrong, it will, and you have to be ready to roll with the punches, get down to business, and make it happen.
Our audience in Piet Retief was just lovely. This is a very conservative part of the country – a kind of Afrikaaner bible belt. They love Jesus first and foremost, but music is a close second. Apparently, the last time they had a visiting choir from oversees was 2003! The community was over the moon at our presence in their little town.
The format for the evening was unique. The concert opened with prayers by a local minister. He followed his scripture quotes with a “blond” joke. (He’s allowed one a night.) We then heard from the Highveld Youth Choir, who sang beautifully. At intermission we were given a bowl of beef and rice (lekker!), and then we came back and did a second half of our music. Boy did they eat us up. They gave the Grads a standing ovation after the very first piece they sang – which the Grads just loved as you can imagine. We also got a standing ovation after “Baba Yetu.” It was a love fest.
After the concert we went to the local Wimpy, the big fast food chain here. The wait and kitchen staff were stunned at the thought of serving 86 people an hour before closing. But they did it, and we treated them to a medley of old and new South African songs. Another tour moment. To see the entire Wimpy staff singing and dancing with us, beaming from start to finish, was an uber tour moment. The formal concerts have all been great, but these impromptu concerts are magical. You’d have to see it to believe it.
We’re now on our way to Kruger National Park. The boys are psyched. The vistas we’re seeing are other-worldly. It’s always an effort to keep the boys in the moment. Tour, and life, is a journey, not a destination. They’re so excited at the thought of seeing “the big five” in the wild that they could easily miss the live National Geographic show outside the bus windows if we let them.
Don’t worry, we’re not letting them.
July 15th started with a “goodbye sing” to the folks at Piet Retief who hosted us and who rose extremely early to feed us. The ride through the South African countryside never fails to enchant all of us as we move from round-topped hills to flat-lands and from dried grasses to green pine forests to banana trees. The scorched roadsides (and the fires we saw everywhere) were finally explained to us. Farmed and grazed fields go right up to the edges of the 2-lane highways. If there were to be a vehicle accident which caused a fire, then entire farms and livestock would go up in smoke. The owner of the farm where the fire started would be responsible for the damage caused by the spreading fire. So, the farmers create a fire-break by burning a swath along every road or driveway. (There are no mowers). This both decreases the risk of fire, but also increases visibility along these roads.
Wednesday morning we rehearsed again ourselves, and then rehearsed with the Draakies and the Saskatoon Girls Choir, who joined us for the concert that afternoon. The performance was a triumph. Larry Hoenig said it was the best concert of children’s choirs he had ever heard in his entire life. Anne Odland said it was the “shortest longest” concert she had ever been too. (Three hours! but delightful) The Draakies opened the concert, followed by the girls, and then us. The boys were nervous, as they had witnessed the excellent singing of one of the world’s great boychoir. Boy, I wish they got nervous all the time, because hey turned in a stunning performance. Nothing like a little competition to get the boys pumped. They were on their game in a way that only happens on tour. Singing together every day really allows us to take things to “the next level.” The director of DBC raved about “The Word Was God”, and had said earlier that day that our treble sound is one he admires. Quite the compliment. Oh, and the trebles sang “Ise the Bye” for the Canadians. They loved it.
The second half of the concert was largely the DBC singing their South African folk song set. Wow! The only thing you can say. The songs, the dancing, the precision, the color. It’s like nothing you’ve ever seen from a children’s choir. All the young singers from the US and Canada came down to the stage for the final song – what else but Shosholoza. It was quite a moment. We also sang “Hope for Resolution” and “I Need You To Survive” together. Usually, I’m not a fan of mass choirs. The singers are packed in like sardines and the music-making is not very tight. But the wonderful space allowed for lots of singers to have enough room to hear themselves and “let their bodies sing,” as I like to say. It was very moving.
After the concert, all the singers went to an island in the middle of a lake at the resort and had a traditional braai, along with a dance party. The adults were treated to a “Christmas in July” dinner at the resort restaurant. Our boys came in and serenaded the guests of the resort. They were a big hit singing “We Are the Boys,” “Praise His Holy Name,” and the South African medley.
The next day we departed our friends at DBCS. It was a great reunion from our short time together in Philadelphia, and we made an even stronger connection here in South Africa. Everyone agrees on both sides that this is a musical friendship that will continue for a long time to come. So much so that they’re taking the now-defunct Harlem Boys Choir arrow off their mileage post and replacing it with the Keystone State Boychoir. Yeah! Made us think back to our trip to Antarctica. I hope Alejo put our arrow up on their mileage post.
Tuesday morning we began rehearsing our “10th Anniversary, Seven Continents Tour Medley,” arranged by Fitz especially for our B1K event. It’s going to be electrifying. We used the DBCS venue, which is a dream space – amphitheatre seating and built in choral risers. Fine acoustic. We ate our hearts out the whole time we were there. In the late morning “the Draakies,” as they are affectionately called, joined us for a rehearsal of Hope for Resolution and I Need You to Survive. Then we got an amazing invitation. The Draakies asked us to record “I Need You To Survive” with them that evening so that the song could be included in their upcoming CD. Of course we said yes.
For lunch we went into to the nearby town of Winterton to the Waffle Hut. BIG HIT. Especially the chicken waffles and milkshake special. The boys sang for the wait staff and it was joyous. This tradition of singing for the wait staff wherever we go has become my and many others favorite part of tour. That’s because the wait staff, always black South Africans, always join in singing and dancing with us. Look for the pictures. It’s heartwarming every time it happens, and it happens every time, everywhere we go.
Later the boys split into two groups, either playing soccer with the Drakensberg boys (Drakies) or going for a hike.
In the afternoon, we toured the school, played soccer with the Draakies (we only lost by one point), and some hiking, we had dinner at Dragon Peaks. South African cuisine is excellent, although our vegetarian boys are in the wrong country. Meat is a must at every meal. (Don’t worry vegetarian moms, they’re fine!) After dinner, we headed to the venue for our recording session. It went great and we think we have it “in the can,” as they say in the business. Recording requires a whole another level of focus and patience. It’s a valuable experience for the boys to have, as it prepares them for situations down the road in life where the pressure is on. The younger Draakies actually recorded the piece in their pajamas because it was past their bed-time. Now our boys want to sing in their sleep wear.
The Draakies
Long bus rides and tour go hand in hand. We spent all day Monday “on the road again,” making our way east from Kimberley, to the Drakensberg Mountains in KwaZulu Natal. A main tenant of the tour bus ride is the rest stop. It takes good planning and serious chap power to make for a successful, safe stop. Areas of concern: safety in the restrooms, stopping the boys from stock piling bags of candy, chips, and ice cream, keeping them from getting in line at the fast food counters.
The scenery was gorgeous, especially as we entered Zululand – land of the great warrior Shaka. No wonder so much blood has been shed throughout the years to control this part of the country. The rolling hills, the peaks and valleys, peppered with the signature Zulu rondevels, the blue skies and cotton-like clouds make for a picture-perfect postcard wherever you look, for as far as you can see.
Twelve hours later we arrived at the Drakensberg Boys Choir School in the evening and headed right for dinner at the Dragon Peaks resort restaurant, situated next to the Choir School. (By the way “Drakensburg” means “Dragon’s Peak” in Afrikaans.) Once our bellies were full, we did room assignments. Those boys who were in the hostel in Kimberley were given the cabins for three at Dragon Peaks. Great fun. Those who had the comfort of the homestays in Kimberley were assigned to the very spartan South African Air Force barracks on the property of Dragon Peaks. Of course the trade off to a cold hostel is the fact that the boys are all together in one place. I was not present, but heard of peanut butter and jelly pig-out at midnight in the cold under the African moon. Hostels and hotels always make for spontaneous tour moments, albeit they mean more work for the chaps and staff. It’s never easy getting them settled down and quiet for sleep. In this hostel, the boys had to go outside to the shower stations. Very, very cold. That which doesn’t kill us makes us stronger. I have no doubt that after the boys endure the South African winter for three weeks in hostels, they will be able to deal with anything life throws their way.
Update from Steve, July 15th:
Sunday in Kimberley
Sunday we began our day singing a high Anglican mass at St. Cyprians Cathedral. It was a great cultural experience – a first hand experience of the European roots in South Africa. The Cathedral is magnificent, majestic and intimate at the same time. I can’t think of a more beautiful place of worship. The boys sat facing each other in the choir stalls in the chancel area in front of the altar. The pomp and circumstance of the Anglican service is impressive. Lots of incense for the boys to over-react to. But the sang beautifully. Of particular note was the trebles’ performance of Faure’s Pie Jesu and the Grads’ performance of O Vos Omnes. Breathtaking. One of the ministers thanked us and said he couldn’t remember the last time the Cathedral was blessed by such beautiful singing.
And then, a remarkable opportunity. We finished the service at 9:45am and by 10:30am we were in the township singing the mass at Fatima Catholic Church in the township. I can’t ever remember a tour opportunity like it. To go from one end of the worship spectrum to the other in 45 minutes. I suppose being in a church, a mosque, and a synagogue in one afternoon in Sofia, Bulgaria comes close. But there, we did not sing in any service, we simply visited them. We sang a few songs for ourselves at the church and the synagogue, but could not sing in the mosque. But I digress.
View the Photo Gallery on Flickr: July 10
Words will not adequately describe the musical and cultural experience we had in the mass at Fatima. When the unbridled energy, verve and joy of South African singing meets the faithfulness with which black South Africans worship – look out. To say the congregation caught the spirit and ran with it would be a gross understatement. Let’s put it this way. I’ve had the thrilling opportunity to worship in black Baptist churches back home. The Fatima mass makes the typical Baptist service seem reserved. My favorite images were:
After the mass, we sang a mini-concert. It was truly overwhelming. The congregation gathered in close and the ululations from the South African women never stopped. Nkosi Sikeleli and our SA medley were the big hits as usual. And boy do they love our gospel.
Leaving the township, one of our Jewish boys said, “I never got the Jesus thing before, but maybe I’ll convert.” Don’t worry, Jewish parents. He approached me the next day and said he decided that, while Fatima was awesome, he’s sticking with Judaism. Whew!
After another delicious meal catered by Doria (I’ll post a recipe for carrots below) the boys sang a collective concert with the Institute singers at St. Cyprian’s Cathedral.
We then returned to St. Cyprians for our joint concert with the Institute Choir. Alan Harler conducted the Institute Choir, including our “Early Eight.” I was very proud of them. They sang five pieces from the baroque and classical repertoire and Mr. Harler thanked me afterwards for how much they contributed to the ensemble. He noticed their top-notch singer-musicianship and total dedication to the art of choral singing. Hadida!
We then sang our two joint pieces: El Yivneh Hagalil and Hold Me, Rock Me. Absolutely beautiful. KSB then sang a program of songs which went very well. We ended with a set of new South African songs we had learned over the last few days. Awesome. The boys can’t wait to sing them for you. Especially the one about marrying your cousin. (First-removed, of course)
It was personally gratifying me to witness how successful our time Kimberley had been. It took a lot of time, planning, money, and stress to get the boys to the center of the country. But it was worth it in the end. All of my work in Kimberley over the last sixteen years came together in a way that gave the boys four days they will never forget. To actually make music with South Africans in their community is a priceless gift. Something money that cannot buy. If we had only gone to Kimberley and come home, I believe that all your efforts to get your son to South Africa, would have been worth it. I can’t remember if I’m repeating myself from an earlier blog, but one boy said to me: “Mr. Fisher, you should have put Kimberley last on the itinerary, because nothing could be better than this.” Love that.
More later…
From Steve: July 15
Saturday in Kimberley
As a united choir, at last, we gathered at our home base of St. Cyprian’s Cathedral and headed off to Fatima Shrine to sing with the township Youth Choirs of Fatima and St. Boniface. On the way out, Dimakatso, the director of Fatima’s choir informed us that heavy fire smoke would prevent us from meeting at Fatima. Many of the township folks have to light fires to stay warm throughout the bitter South African nights. Unfortunately, often the fires burn out of control. Homes and sometimes, tragically, people are lost.
We moved our venue to the school yard of St. Boniface. The silver-lining for me was the fact that St. Bonifiace was where my South African journey began sixteen years ago. It was the first school at which I taught in the township. My time in Kimberley was peppered with South Africans, now grown with children of their own, coming up to me and saying, “Mr. Fisher, do you remember me?” Very nostalgic.
At St. Boniface, KSB formed a large circle. The Youth Choirs then came into the circle and sang a seTwanna welcome song to us. They then proceeded to teach us two religious songs that we would sing with them the following day in mass. Nothing could have prepared us for that experience – more later.
Often on tour our chaperones hang in the background while the boys are singing. But our adults joined us in the circle, which is the only way in South Africa. The idea of people not joining in the group is unheard of. They had a ball singing the new songs, as well as the well-known KSB medley of South African songs. One chaperone commented how thrilling it was. For years, she had watched KSB perform Shosholoza as an audience member. Now she was singing it with KSB, in a township, in South Africa. The real deal. Surreal.
From St. Boniface we headed to another school DEEPER in the township. (Ask your sons about “deeper.”) There we found the Salvation Army Field Band at the end of a two-week band camp. As we got off the bus we could hear them playing out, serenading us as we walked closer. Amazing to see these young people playing brass and percussive instruments with such polish. In the distance, a few South Africans stood outside the school fence, listening and watching as we were. It was incredible to see this non-singing musical example of ubuntu. One of our seniors, DJ, who plays in a marching band, commented to me that he was “in heaven.” So I approached the band director and asked them if DJ could jump in. Of course he could! A South African would never deny someone the opportunity to be part of the group. The KSB boys cheered DJ as he walked onto the field. It was a special tour moment.
KSB then performed for them, which they loved. What sent them into orbit was our South African medley. Now I must admit, and I’m sure the boys feel the same way, performing the South African songs back home can be a bit of a chore. Audiences love them, but singing the same songs many times over can be tiresome. But not here in South Africa. The South Africans are so taken by a choir of American boys singing their songs, that each time we do the medley, it feels like were debuting it for the very first time. When we broke out into Shosholoza, the entire field band joined in. Some South Africans came into the choir and began doing their own vocal and movement ad libbing. It was electrifying. I can’t ever remember being so overwhelmed by this song which has become South Africa’s second national anthem.
We then had a South African braai lunch, township style. No drink, no sides, just meat. I was struck by the South Africans and our boys singing on the way to lunch, singing in line for lunch, singing while eating lunch. One boy made the comment, “Mr. Fisher, for once you were not exaggerating, South Africans really do sing everywhere they go, whatever they’re doing.”
After lunch, all over the school fields, there were groups of young people interacting. Some playing soccer. Some playing on the drums. Some dancing. Some singing. South Africans and Americans all mixing, as if they had known each other for years.
As we left, of course, we sang. From there we headed to the Big Hole. It is truly an incomprehensible site. The boys had intentions of buying diamonds for all you moms, as they had it in their head that they could get them cheap at the Big Hole. Some even vowed to “find one” on the ground. But I’m sorry to report moms that no one found one, and they decided, even at a discount, the diamonds were too expensive. Guess you’ll have to settle for those carved-elephant salad spoons.
I made sure the boys understood the full story of the diamond trade in Kimberley. Hundreds of thousands of black South Africans dug the largest hole in the world for riches they would never enjoy. The conditions were beyond deplorable. The pay was insulting. It was a nightmarish existence for the workers. I asked the boys to not idealize the townships today. The devastating poverty is the legacy of apartheid. And the people sing not because they are fine with their hardships, but to survive their hardships. The boys got it. Especially on Sunday when we left the township for the last time. We had a “silent bus” where the boys just looked. Really looked. Beyond the romantic surface of township life, to the pain and suffering of everyday life in the township. They got it. In fact, I got it more than I ever head. It was a gift to me. Seeing it through the boys eyes reminded me once again of the bitter fruit of racism.
(this is Anne, not Steve…) This is the story of our day on Saturday, July 9th. Although I know Steve will have a lot more to say, and more eloquently that I could, I think you can look at the pictures, watch the body language, the faces, the eye contact, and see much of what your boys experienced. It was “Joyful” in the deepest meaning of the word.
Link for the individual pictures – Flickr Set – July 9
Our last group of boys arrived safe and sound today. They loaded the bus and departed for St. Cyprian’s Cathedral.
As they entered the church hall, they were greeted by the most spirited version of Shosholoza I’ve ever heard. Shortly before the boys arrived, I asked our South African friends from the Institute Choir what song we should sing as a welcome song and they all shouted “Shosholoza.” And so they and the 44 Keystone Boys sang them into the “kraal” with this most beloved folk song. (think “When the Saints Go Marching In.”) As the younger Trebles entered the room they joined the circle, and the South Africans immediately gravitated to them and embraced them with traditional hand shakes and hugs, bathing them in those beautiful voices.
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We then sang “Nkosi Sikeleli.” History: our boys learned the melody of this piece, which contains four (maybe more) different languages representing the Rainbow Nation that is South Africa. Over the course of the last few days, with each performance of the piece, our boys have picked up the harmony lines from their South African friends. They’ve learned it aurally in the tradition of township singing. The blossoming of this piece has been a joy to witness. We then sang our own National Anthem. How thrilled the South Africans were to hear real live Americans singing a song they’ve only heard on television.
We then broke out into a South African folk song we’ve been singing the last few days – you’ll hear it and several others when we get back. The new guys, God bless them, just jumped in. You can’t do anything but be swept up and swept away by this music. It’s absolute bliss. Out of the corner of my eye, in the frenzy of music-making, I caught Mrs. Case – who arrived with the younger Trebles – welled up with tears. So glad to bring her to tears of joy for a change. LOL.
Speaking of, I told the boys that if they don’t fill up with tears at least ten times on this concert tour, then they’re robots. The boys immediately and openly admitted to the neighbors that they had already cried. This is the power of music making with boys in a boychoir setting. It allows them to express themselves emotionally and still feel “manly.” The spirit of a boychoir is 100% male, but in a way that allows the boys to stay connected to their feelings. Their future spouses will thank us later!
There are a hundred moments every day where I wish you the parents could be a fly on the wall. When a South African soprano who spots one of our sopranos who is “movement challenged” and instinctively comes behind him, cradles him, and helps him to move in sync with the group. The South African bass who sings in the ear of one of our basses to correct a pitch, and then gives the KSB bass a thumbs up, which is then followed by a traditional handshake. When the South Africans beam at the sight and sound of 68 American boys singing their traditional music with the same passion they sing it themselves. Each day is an embarrassment of musical riches. Can’t wait to see more beaming faces – South African and American – tomorrow.
Link for Flickr Pics – Group 3 Arrives
Oh, I almost forgot. Before the younger Trebles arrived, we did an impromptu concert for Economic students from the Oprah Winfrey School. (Oprah built a school just south of Jo’burg.) They are on a tour themselves, studying the economic history of Kimberley. As they were of high school age, you won’t be surprised that they were taken by our Graduates, which of course our Graduates basked in it. We told the girls to call Oprah and let her know she should have us on her show. Then we realized her show just ended. Isn’t that just our luck. But who knows where it might lead…
1 am here. Off to bed for a little sleep. 6:45am interview with SABC. (equivalent of the BBC in South Africa) The South African Press has picked up on our “Happy Birthday, Madiba!” concert tour with our commitment to 67 minutes of service in each city we visit. My cell phone has been ringing off the hook. Very cool. We also are featured in the South African Airways in-flight magazine. I didn’t see it, as the July magazine was not out when I came over. You can imagine the boys excitement when they discovered it on the flight over. I was told one of our boys shrieked when he saw it. “Yo, page 22, check it out!” All the boys raced for page 22, and there we were. Colored picture and all, with a blurb about us being the first choir to have sung on all seven continents. Apparently, fellow passengers were impressed to be traveling with celebrities. And they are that. Your songs are a terrific face of American youth to the world.
Okay, really signing off now. More later…
Link for Flickr Pics – July 8
