Singing in the northernmost church in the world was very, very cool. It was a small congregation, but after all, it’s a small church in a small village. Small is sometimes nicer. The intimacy of the service made it very special. It is a very beautiful church in a simple, Norwegian way with gorgeous paintings and chandeliers.
We made more history after the served when we went swimming in the northernmost pool in the world, diving off the most northernmost diving board in the world, and jumping off the northernmost platform in the world. The boys who chose to swim had an absolute ball. Other chose to sleep or shop, but after all you can sleep when you’re…home from tour. At the end of the swimming session (we had the pool to ourselves, opened up just for us), we sang for our lifeguard IN THE POOL. Which means we are the only choir to have sung a concert in the northernmost pool in the world. That’s gotta be a Guinesss world record.
Now it’s off to a nice buffet dinner at the Radisson Blu Hotel.
It was a very full day with lots of tour moments – some interesting, some fun, some profound.
We began at the Svalbard museum, which recently won an award as one of the top museums of its kind in all of Europe. The boys were thoroughly engaged for over an hour – and it’s an intimate exhibit. They were able see all the Arctic wildlife up close – stuffed of course! They were able to climb through a mine and dig for fossils, and even lay on animal skin. Some of the grads did try to catch a late morning nap! We did a mini-concert for the museum director, Patricia. She had heard us the night before at the Kulturhuset. It was fun singing “Old Northwest” right next to a stuffed polar bear! We also dedicated “Hello Mary Lou” to her. She said it would make her husband jealous, with a devilish smile.
From there we went dog sledding. Actually it was dog wagoning as there is not enough snow for sleds. Still, it was great fun. Especially since the dogs took us out of the town, into the actual wilderness.
The dogs were very cute, but very serious in their job. The trainers talked about how individual their personalities are. Some are always happy, some are moody, some are always grumpy. Their pull the sleds mostly in pairs, but the pairs have to be chosen carefully, to match personalities. Just like tour buddies! Some dogs have to pull without a partner because they have trouble getting along with anyone. Hmm… (But not YOUR son)
There’s a polar bear sign around the circumference of the town, beyond which you cannot go without guns. Our women dog drivers were packing heat! Don’t’ mess with Norwegian women! They let some of the boys drive the wagons. Serious Norwegian fun! Actually, there was one male driver. The chaps though him quite handsome. He taught Mrs. Bryan how to drive. She LOVED it. Oh, and she also loved driving the wagon. J
After sledding, our hostess took us back to her dog pound where we she made us Norwegian pancakes and a warm drink. We huddled into a hut with a fireplace at the center. “Cozy!”, as our Norwegian hostess would say. She then showed us a slide show of “a year in Svalbard.” We provided the sound track, singing our Norwegian pieces. She cried!
From there we literally crashed the University of Svalbard. We squatted in the lobby and warmed up and used the bathroom, and take a little nap. Security was not where to be found. No doubt everyone had gone home to get ready for the Summer Solstice
And then it was on the party. GREAT FUN. Boys were treated to hamburgers and sausage. Delicious. Then we did a concert. Absolutely surreal to be standing on the beach at the top of the world, singing “We Are The Boys.” The crowd loved every minute of it, and so did we. After the performance, it was more eating and drinking. The boys mixed with the Norwegians. They had never had a Summer Solstice quite like this one, thanks to the boys.
One couple approached me to thank us for the concert, and especially our dedication to the young Norwegians that lost their lives in Utoya attack last July. And the father added, “actually, our son died in the attack.” Svalbard resident Johannes Roa, at the tender age of fourteen, lost his live in this terrible act of violence and cowardice. I am not often speechless, but I struggled for words. Up until that moment this was in the abstract. And of course, as Americans we are not unfamiliar with this kind of tragedy. But what can prepare you for facing parents who have endured such pain, especially in such a tragic and public way. Johanne’s Mom said they she felt a “moment of peace” when the Grads sang “Prayer of the Children.” Before we left the beach, we gathered in a circle, with Johannes’ parents and brother part of the circle, and sang “Benediction” and “KSB Tour Hymn.” It was a humbling experience to stand with these brave people. Later we talked to the boys about it, reminding them of this very powerful gift they have and its ability to succeed in articulating sorrow – or joy, or hope – in a way that words cannot. We also talked about looking past the inconsequential moments of tour (and life). The frustrations and challenges with others, with ourselves. Try to always appreciate everything we have, most importantly the gift of life and health and then, a close third, the gift of music.
We gave Johannes parents a CD to remember us, and gave Johannes’ brother a Tour T-shirt. I am sure they’ll always remember us. We certainly will remember them and keep them in our hearts and prayers and thoughts.
KSB…officially now the Boychoir with Lattitude Attitude
At approximately 14:20, KSB touched down in Longyearbyen, Svalbard. In doing so, it made history again as the first choir to reach both the Antarctic and Arctic Circles. The wheels of the plane had hardly hit the ground when the boys broke out into the South African medley. This was a musical bookend to the outburst that occurred when we touched down in Antarctica.
Even before the plane door opened, we could feel the drop in temperature. The town of Longyearbyen is certainly more built up than Frei Base on King George Island, but a sense of other worldliness pervades. Mountains, with tops still covered with snow, surround the little valley settlement, dwarfing all that is in it. Although no longer a mining town, you get the distinct feeling of being back in time. Aesthetics is not a priority here, rather practicality and necessity in surviving the elements. Still, despite all the above ground pipes, muddy everything, and old dilapidated shacks from a time gone by, it’s a handsome little town that is maintains its frontier charm while being forward thinking in its newer, modern architecture.
We rushed into our hostel, got changed, and headed to the Kulturhuset. Just a year old, again quite contemporary in a rugged way. After rehearsal we were treated to a pizza feast with the most wonderfully imaginative toppings. Pinnapple pizza, taco pizza, curry chicken pizza. And as much as the boys wanted. Not difficult to make boys happy. Quantity a must, quality a bonus.
After dinner, they explore the little town in tour buddy pairs, busking as they went, drumming up an audience. Every person in sight was stopped and informed of the pending concert.
For such a small village, we had a great turn out and once again the boys delighted one and all. Our singing in Norwegian continues to surprise and enchant our Norwegian audiences. The boys are performing all of our repertoire so very well. And the newer singers continue to blossom musically, as well as socially. Rarely do our audiences at home get to see such polished concerts. We become a well-oiled singing machine. Fitz and I and the staff and chaps are very proud of how well they’re representing KSB, our state, and our country. With their talent and good manners (mostly!), they define, and sometimes redefine – for the better – the image of American youth. Parents, you should be proud as well.
After the concert we went for ice cream. The store had copies of the local English newspaper, which has an article about us and our visit, including a a color photo and a listing of our appearances while in Svalbard.
At the end of the evening, back at the hostel, we reminded the boys that each and everyone of them now have a college essay. It can start out something like this: “I realize now, looking back at my experience performing in the Arctic Circle -just a stone’s throw from the North Pole – that it was this moment when I began viewing myself as an explorer of sorts. One with limitless opportunities for exploration in this wonderful wide world. Now, as I look toward my college experience, I see it as yet one more exciting frontier to be explored.” Sure wish I could have written something like that for my college essay!
This sun never setting thing takes some getting used to. You can’t imagine how strange it is – broad daylight at 9pm, 10pm, 11pm, 12pm… Twenty four hours of light! We’ll see how well the boys sleep. Luckily tomorrow is a fairly easy day.
This afternoon we had a concert in the town square. We drew quite a crowd on what had to be the most beautiful day of tour in terms of weather. And in Bergen! The city where it rains 300 days a year??? It was picture perfect. Blue skies, sun shining. When we started into our South African medley, a Somolian woman began to ululate along with our KSB ululators. (not sure if that is a word, but it should be) The crowd loved it. One of our trebles went over to her and sang with her. Let the tour moment begin. See pictures and video. A man from Tanzania also joined in on the fun. After the concert ended, he took one of our drums and began to play. Major Tanzanian jam session, complete with riffing, singing and dancing. What dancing! Those boys who have been on tour before, especially South Africa, are quite familiar with this sort of musical “happening.” But the new boys were new to this and clearly taken by the spontaneity of it all. The favorite dancer of all was a young Norwegian woman. A model perhaps? The boys were convinced of it. Quite beautiful. Several trebles voices cracked for the first time right then and there.
Then it was off for shopping. Gifts coming your way parents. Hope you like trolls.
We had dinner at “Pasta Central.” Not exactly Norwegian fare, but the fresh Norwegian salmon on the pasta was delicious.
Tour moment II. There was a piano, and Fitz hopped on the bench. The owner of the restaurant, an Italian immigrant to Norway, was thrilled. He was dancing in the aisles and didn’t seem to mind when we took over his restaurant. He was disappointed to learn we have no Italian songs in our repertoire, but adjusted quickly and blissed out on gospel.
It was decided that we could get around Bergen on public transportation. This usually involves a little more work than charter buses and a few more frayed chaperone and staff nerves, but is worth the trade off. Being on buses, trams, and subways is the best way to break out of the tourist bubble and experience a culture’s every day way of life. We had our garment bags with our formal attire for our evening concert, and so the bus turned into the inside of a closet. See picture. It was funny to hear every Norwegian who got on the bus utter what sounded to me like some Norwegian version of “oy.”
Once we arrived in the city, there was free time in chap groups, with a variation. Trebles have been assigned tour big brothers from the Graduate Choir. The hope is that the connection between younger and older boys will continue into next season. It also gives the chaperones some support.
Early afternoon we met at the Bergen Castle and did a sing in a very cool room where Viking Kings were crowned. Right out of a movie. Then, on to rehearsal.
Our venue in Bergen was over a thousand years old. We learned that during the War of 1812, American sailors took refuge in the church for several months. Apparently they inspired Norwegians with their American brand of democracy, which in turn helped democracy take root in Bergen and then all of Norway. The sexton at the church said that, with all those American boys in the space, he could see those sailors camping out and inspiring the locals with tales of freedom. The smell was the same I bet.
After a very good rehearsal we had a delicious meal at a nice restaurant around the corner. Very expensive. But worth it. We had the second floor to ourselves, where a buffet of salad, chicken skewers, bread and salad were served. We had sixty very happy boys. They deserved a good meal. They’ve been doing great on every level.
The audience at the concert was small, but extremely appreciative. I can’t remember a crowd that was so thoroughly enchanted by the boys. They sang extremely well – the best in recent memory. The setting inspired them I believe. The nine foot grand piano didn’t hurt either, nor did the risers which gave the boys plenty of room to hear themselves and each other and to let their bodies sing with their voices. And of course, singing every day, the boys really start to put out polished performances no matter the venue. It’s one of the great joys of tour that you have the same group of boys day after day, without soccer practice, play practice, and the like getting in the way of musical progress. A level of ensemble takes hold that is impossible at home. The boys become in sync, with each other, with their directors, with themselves. And that is a gift to all – including audiences.
After the concert, the Grads headed up the funicular for a sunset above Bergen (gorgeous) and a late night run to McDonalds. You never saw a McDonalds as quaint as the one in Bergen. No golden arches! This morning the Trebles are headed up to the funicular while the Grads sleep in. VERY HAPPY GRADS.
The boys had a good night with their homestays. Some of the boys were living in fairly spartan homes, as to be expected out in the Norwegian hinterland. What a great opportunity to live as Romans in Rome. And one can survive anything for one night. Some have said it was their best homestay ever. Homestays are always the luck of the draw. However, what glitters is not always gold. And the simplest homestays can be the best because, as we know, the kind of person you are has nothing to do with how much you have.
We did a mini-concert for the last day of school. Only one school in the village! It was outside and intimate and wonderful. We surrounded the whole student body (90 children) for Draw the Circle. The music teacher asked me to make a special plea to the boys of the school and remind them that boys sing. KSB certainly delivered that message loud and clear. Like homestays, concerts can be very simple and very wonderful at the same time.
We then did some sectional rehearsals and free time about town. Hikes with stunning views were taken, with some complaints regarding the steep climbing. Michelle Obama would have been proud.
After lunch and a full rehearsal we said farewell to beautiful Aurland and took a two hour ferry ride to Gudvangen. I’m running out of superlatives at a time when I desperately need them. I’ll start with the ones with I’ve already used. Beautiful, gorgeous, stunning, marvelous, thrilling, breathtaking.
Add to that really pretty, draw-dropping, dazzling, impressive, out of this world, smashing, beauteous, brilliant, heavenly, remarkable, sparking, splendid, spectacular, exquisite, glorious, handsome, totally awesome, and OMG! And where did I find the boys, in the cabin eating, playing cards, and sleeping. I put an end to that. Everyone to the bow! We did a concert with no audience, but sang for ourselves and it was a real tour moment. You had to see Mrs. O up on a bench singing “Norge mit Norge” with the Grads accompanying her and the trebles listening. The captain, on the bridge above us, opened his window to listen. Magical, really. After a few solemn pieces, we pierced the pastoral mood with the South African medley, but with a nobel variation. Instead of singing “Nelson Mandela,” we sang “Aung San Su Kyi!” Fun!!!
Arriving in Gudvangen we boarded buses to Voss and traveled the steepest road in the world. OMG Take 2. The boys were torn by being totally freaked out and in awe of the scenery on the way down. Nobody does waterfalls like the Norwegians.
Our last leg was a train ride from Voss to Bergen. The choir hit sensory overload at this point. We began longing for some Philly din. Our eyes and minds were actually tired at trying to process so much beauty.
We are now settled into our hostel in Bergen. Four boys to a room. We had a choir meeting to talk about protocols for living under one roof. We’ll be doing so for the next 9 nights, so parameters are crucial if we are to have a happy second half of tour.
Well, if this isn’t the most beautiful corner of the world I’ve ever seen…
After an early morning farewell to our Solvguttene homestays, we trained our way to Myrdal. Four and half hours of breathtaking scenery. Train change in Myrdal, and a very serious descent down the Flam Railway. Thrilling. Oh, and a very bizarre, surreal stop at a gorgeous waterfall. Ask your boys about the Norwegian mystic dancing in the midst. A tour moment that will not soon be forgotten.
When we reached Flam, we did a mini-concert in exchange for ice cream. Really. Well worth it and an even exchange based on the Norwegian kroner. The boys are getting a crash course in fiscal restraint. You cannot believe how expensive this country is. To give you and idea, a candy bar is five dollars.
From Flam, we took a ferry to Aurland, where we were enchanted by seagulls that flew so close to our boat that we could literally touch them. They were as white and pure as freshly fallen Norwegian snow. Just as pesky as those Philadelphia pigeons, but much more well-groomed.
Arriving in Aurland, a village of 1200 people (!), we were astounded with scenery even more breathtaking than what we had seen so far. Our host Nat Mead – Uncle of KSB Trainer Leo Mead – met us at the dock and led us to one of only two hotels in the town. There we had a hearty Norwegian meal and then a quick change for our 6pm concert.
Our venue was a quaint 800 year old church – magnificent in its simplicity. Every bit as moving as the largest cathedral in Europe in its own intimate way. The question was, would anyone come to the performance. This is not the sort of thing that happens in Aurland. And we were competing with the town high school graduation. Well, much to Nat and our surprise, we packed the house. The audience could not have been more delighted. The connection between us and our audience was palpable. I wish I could have transported each and every KSB tour parent to this charming space to witness the sort of bond that your sons create instantaneously through song. It was very special, the kind of performance that only happens once a tour – if a choir is lucky. KSB is lucky indeed.
All the boys left happy with their new, one-night-only homestay. It’s neat to see the younger, “first tour” boys blossom. Now they’re veterans meeting hosts. Hand out, firm shake, eye contact. Fostering the kind of confidence when meeting strangers that will serve them throughout their lives.
Oh, and one really fun thing that happened today. We met up with a couple from Israel who had already heard us three times in Norway. To thank them for their groupie like loyalty, the Grads surrounded them and serenaded them with “Oseh Shalom.” Very moving tour moment. Caught up in the moment, they invited KSB to Israeli. The man said he’ll give us his credit card. He shouldn’t make such offers!
We sang a Sunday service this morning in a gorgeous contemporary Norwegian Church. Not only was it beautiful in a style that was both rugged and refined at the same time, it had an excellent acoustic. And a nine foot Steinway. Fitz was a happy boy!
There were two baptisms during the service. The families were decked out in traditional Norwegian dress. How lucky for us to witness this tradition. And as KSB is apt to do, we became a part of the tradition with our music. At communion, we sang two pieces as planned, but then, unexpectedly, we needed a third piece. So the Grads surrounded the babies and serenaded them with “Prayer of the Children.” Very touching. The babies looked on and listened with such attention. See pictures and video.
I guarantee these infants will hear about this boychoir from America that sang to them on the day of their baptism. It’s a wonderful thing for your songs to be able to create these sort of musical moments for people. Moments that they will remember and recount for their lifetime.
Last night in Oslo Your sons will no doubt have a lovely evening with their new Norwegian family. They’ll present their homestays gifts, hopefully find some clean laundry on their beds, (tour T-shirts in scary shape), pack, and then get a good night sleep for the next stage of the most excellent KSB Norwegian and Arctic Circle Adventure!
Where does one go from there? To a concert of course! And it was equally as powerful. Our boys were on their A game. The cantor of Roa Church was awe-struck at the variety of genres we sang “so magnificently, from Handel to gospel.”
As you can imagine, the most poignant moment of the concert was when we dedicated “Prayer of the Children” to the 68 young Norwegians who lost their lives last July so tragically. The original arrangement has one phrase that has the text of the title in Serbian. We replaced it with the title phrase in Norwegian. The Norwegians are a reserved people, but you could feel a room filled with grateful hearts for us remembering this sad event.
We had a ball singing together. We opened the program with “Da Pacem Domine,” followed by “Draw the Circle Wide”, and then Grieg’s “Ave Maris Stella.” What a sublime experience to sing Grieg in Oslo with a Norwegian choir.
Mid–program, we did a version of Grieg’s “Brother’s Sing On!” that was a real hoot. The KSB Grads sang verse one in English, the tenors and basses of Sølvguttene sang verse two in Norwegian, and we both sang verse three together in our respective languages. Interesting rhythmic results there. Fun!!!
At the end of the program, Anne Odland and the director of Sølvguttene sang the solo in “Norge, mit Norge!” as a duet. We also sang the Norwegian wedding march “Bruremarsj fra Gudbrandsdalen.” Then it was the moment of truth. KSB’s turn to sing in Norwegian with no help. I’m happy to report that “Ven Rondane” was received with great delight. It’s an old beloved folk song, which would have been enough to charm our audience. But our apparently (close to…) perfect Norwegian continues to astound our audiences. Thanks Mrs. O!
We ended with what else? “Shosholoza!” Sølvguttene recently completed a concert tour of South Africa and was hosted by Drakensburg Boy’s Choir. So you can imagine what a finale that made.
Oh, actually, the very last song was Verleih ins Frieden, the piece we had sung earlier that day at the Nobel Peace event. A perfect bookend to a concert that began with Da Pacem Dominum. And a perfect end to a profoundly full day. Some tour days are an embarrassment of musical riches, and this was certainly one that will go down in the KSB concert tour history books. And your sons were there!