Posts filed under: South Africa 2011

The Jakaranda Children’s Choir

We’ve had an amazing stay in Pretoria. Our homestays from the Jakaranda Children’s Choir were most understanding with our late arrival (4 hours!) After more than a week of hostelling, the boys were happy to go off to their homestays for a little TLC. And laundry! God bless the parents of Jakaranda. Every boy had a full suitcase of very dirty, smelly clothes. But no longer. Bai Dankie!!!

Wednesday we visited the Vortrekker Monument. Impressive. (Check it out online) It memorializes the Great Trek of the 1800’s, when the British forced the Afrikaaner from the Cape area into the African velt. This precipitated war between the Afrikaaer and the black tribes throughout the land – the most famous conflict being the Battle of Blood River. You may have heard of Shaka, the Zulu King is one of history’s most fierce, feared, and brilliant warriors.

KSB SA 2011-Voortrekker

View the Photo Gallery on Flickr: Voortrekker – July 20

The boys were able to climb the monument for terrific vistas of the Pretoria / Johanesburg region. We also sing – an amazing acoustic. We sang Nkosi Sikeleli so beautifully that the staff asked for us to sing it again. And then they asked us to sing it a third time! After our mini-concert, we lunched at the picnic area where the boys were able to run around.

Wednesday evening we had a wonderful joint concert with the Jakaranda Children’s Choir. The hall had a brilliant acoustic.

KSB SA 2011-Jakaranda Concert

View the Photo Gallery on Flickr: Jakaranda Concert 7-20

Sublime Visit to the Palace of Justice

Thursday morning we rehearsed. This is one of the great opportunities of tour – to rehearse the boys each day. With daily rehearsals and concerts, we get them to a level of performance that is quite fine, one not possible at home.

We then headed off to the Union Building (equivalent of our Capitol Building in Washington) where Nelson Mandela was inaugurated as the first President of the new South Africa. The boys got some more sun as they lunched on the gorgeous grounds.

KSB SA 2011-Union Building

View the Photo Gallery on Flickr: Union Building – 7/21

From there we went to the National Zoo. It was a bit strange to see animals in cages after seeing them in the wild at Kruger. I think we’ve created some animal activists!

KSB SA 2011-Pretoria Zoo

View the Photo Gallery on Flickr: Pretoria Zoo – 7/21

We finished our day of sight-seeing at the Palace of Justice, where Nelson Mandela gave his famous speech before being sentenced to life imprisonment on Robben Island. I had never been in the space, so this was thrilling for me. As a student of South African history, it gave me goose bumps to be in the room. The world, was expecting Mandela to be sentenced to death, as was Mandela himself. Because court procedure allowed a criminal to speak before sentencing without time limit, he decided to take what might be his last opportunity to make his case to the world. Those in the courtroom was the speech, which lasted four hours, felt like four minutes. It was that compelling.

I will post the last paragraph of his speech on this wiki space. I read it to the boys while the sat in the courtroom, and we followed it by singing the Nkosi Sikeleli and our new South African folk song “Nelson Mandela.” For me personally, it was a sublime a moment as I’ve ever had on tour. I think the boys also were moved. Or they were just aware of the zen moment I was having, and indulged me. J

We were then brought down to the cell below the courtroom where Mandela spent many months before his trial. VERY COOL. The graffiti of many political prisoners from the apartheid era covers the walls. Mandela himself drafted the ground-breaking Freedom Charter on a section of it. Amazing that there was no glass over the walls. If this was an American tourist attraction, it would have already been “Disney-ified.” (Is that a word? It not, it should be.) The boys walked through the cell in one long line in total silence. It was quite chilling.

KSB SA 2011-Palace of Justice

View the Photo Gallery on Flickr: Palace of Justice – 7/21

Thursday night we had another great concert at the stunning concert hall at the University of South Africa (UNISA). The acoustics are not very live, but it’s a good theatrical space, and a good fit for KSB. We performed with two very good high school choirs (girls and boys), and so the boys had to bring their A game to the stage – which they did. I was worried they would have low energy as we had a long day running around Pretoria. I challenged them to make me say afterwards “I was wrong.” Sure enough, this morning, they made me say it. I did, with great pleasure. Well, it hurt a little.

KSB SA 2011-Unisa Concert

View the Photo Gallery on Flickr: Unisa Concert – 7/21

Right now, as I’m typing, I’m watching the boys run around a beautiful park on a beautiful day. Balmy. More pleasant than your dog days of summer we’ve been hearing about on the news!

This afternoon we are going to a local mall so the boys can see they new Harry Potter movie. They are psyched, as are the adults. Martha’s family wants me to let them know she is NOT going to see the movie.

More later…
After the verdict came in, there was great relief that Mandela’s life was spared.

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Marge Copeland
A Eulogy

First a few thank you’s. To Father Riceo, Ken Rowe, and St. Francis of Assisi Church, Marge’s parish for 70 years. To our dear family friend Lisa who cantered, and to Susan Ashbaker and Alex Bessen, who represents the Keystone State Boychoir here today. Special thanks to the nurses and aides who cared for Marge these last few years, including Vivian and Ruth, and especially Linda and her husband John. And of course, the family is grateful to Marge’s three daughters, Peggy, Kathy, and Suzanne, who so lovingly, in their own unique way, cared for her. They ushered their mother out of life just as she had lovingly ushered them into life. A personal note of thanks to my father John and sister Diane who were faithful to Nana day in and day out for so long. Finally, thanks to my family, Marc and Julianna, for being here in my absence.

I am so sorry I can’t be with you today. Very few things on earth could keep me from my dear grandmother’s funeral. But I am in South Africa on a concert tour, charged with the safety and well being of 68 children. I hope Nana is looking down on me “from a distance” with understanding. Although, knowing Nana, I’m not completely sure. I can almost hear her: “Now wait, now wait, now wait. Steven, listen to your Grandmother. Family comes first.” That’s is how Nana lived her life – with family at its center.

I learned of Nana’s passing just a few hours after it happened. I hadn’t called home since departing the States, and something told me to call. It was Nana whispering in my ear. I was in a little town in South Africa called, of all things, Bethlehem. A word that brings to mind not death, but birth. Of course the two go hand in hand. I know Nana is in heaven, reborn, free from the struggle that she faced at the tail end of her life. What a full life it was! Not only did she lead a wonderful one, but she enriched the lives of her family in so many ways. What I loved was her stories. Each one had a life lesson. I’m not sure Nana realized it, but her stories taught me so much. You can’t sum up a life in a few minutes, but I will try.

Margaret Catherine, affectionately called Marge, was born on April 29th, 1917. She grew up in the Kensington section of Philadelphia with her beloved sister Catherine – forever known to my generation as “Aunt Catherine.” A question remains. Who’s older? Nana or Aunt Catherine? Nana insisted she was the younger. Eventually we learned that Nana was in fact older, but there’s still a bit of doubt in my mind to this day, as Nana was so earnest in her claim. Marge also had two brothers: John and Jimmy. I remember well parties up at Uncle Jimmy and Aunt Helen’s house. Jimmy, like all the Dornish’s, was a real character. We’re still waiting for a ride on his yacht. Another remaining question: did Uncle Jimmy even have boat? Life lesson: Lying about your age or your yacht is at a family party is perfectly okay. Nana loved her parties and her Manhattans. She told me a while ago that she wanted us to have a good cry at her funeral and then have a Manhattan for her. Life lesson: A cocktail is one of the great joys of life.

Upon graduating from eighth grade, Grandmom Dornish told Marge in no uncertain terms that when her father asked her if she wanted to go to work or continue with high school, to choose the latter. Most girls in those days, including Nana, didn’t see much use for a high school diploma, and wanted instead to go out and make money. But dutifully, Marge went off to Hallahan Catholic High School for girls. Looking back, she was glad she did, and was always proud of her high school education and grateful that Grandmom Dornish insisted. Life lesson: listen to your mother. Whenever there was a conflict in the family, Nana always felt it was the younger person’s responsibility to extend the olive branch to the older person. Right is right and wrong is wrong she would say. Life lesson: Respect your elders even if they’re imperfect.

Sometime after graduating from high school, Marge met the love of her life – Raymond Copeland – at the Adelphi Roller Skating rink. Ray was skating with Nana’s friend Mary. But then Mary suggested a trio. Meaning, three people skating at the same time. As you may have guessed, Mary got the short end of that stick. The rest is history. It was the beginning of a great love affair. Their skating and dancing brought them great joy throughout their lives, as it did to all of us who ever witnessed them in action. Such grace. Remember the West End Boat Club? I felt like we were royalty as the grandchildren of the Marge and Ray. Life lesson: It’s okay to steal your friend’s beaux, but only if you’re sure it’s you soul mate. Marge and Ray certainly were that. They were totally devoted to each other. Like all couples they bickered, but their love to each other was unshakable. Oh, and Nana was the jealous type. No matter how many years had passed, she was never amused by the fact that Pop danced with a French woman or two in Europe. Ray Copeland was her dance partner, and her’s alone.

Nana told me that when she and Ray were “courting” they couldn’t afford to go out on dates, so they would sit on her front porch at night. She said that when you’re in love, it doesn’t matter what you’re doing if you’re together. When things would get a little too “friendly” on the porch (Nana called it ‘necking’), apparently Grandmom Dornish would tap her shoe on the floor of her bedroom, which was above the porch where they sat. Nana said Pop knew it was time to propose when one night, as their passion flaired on the porch, one of Grandmom Dornish’s shoes came flying down the stairs onto the porch. Life lesson: You don’t need a lot of money to have fun with your soul mate, but if you want to really have fun, you better put a ring on it.

Nana was a hard worker. During high school she worked at Philco during the summers. After high school, she went on to work for Sears and Roebuck. And she was smart. Before she left Sears she had 22 girls under her supervision. I often wonder, if she had grown up at a different time, what she might have become. Not that Nana wanted more from life. She was wholly satisfied with her lot.

Nana was the boss. Just ask Pop. She certainly was the boss when it came to money. When it came to money, Marge not only wore the pants, but shirt, tie, and jacket. She was a saver. The $4,600 she put aside from Sears – an extraordinary amount of money in those days – was used for a down payment on their first and only house. 109 Wayne Avenue. Her insistence on saving money allowed her and Pop to have a wonderful retirement with lots of great trips. Life lesson: Put something away every paycheck. “Even if it’s 50 cents,” she used to say.

Nana could be frugal, but could also be incredibly generous. Every year down the shore she would give her three daughters money to treat their families to something special. Who can forget the summer she lost the $3,000 she was going to give to her girls. She was sick about it, but it didn’t stop her from giving her daughters the spending money anyway. You could always come to Nana for a loan. I’m sure every single grandchild at some stage borrowed money from ole Nan. She was good for it. But she wanted you to pay it back. She’d say, “that way, I’ll have money when you come back for another loan.” Life lesson: If you borrow something, give it back. And always pay your own way.

Marge was strong. We certainly saw that as she held onto life, and held on, and held on, and held on. She gave birth to their first born, Peggy, alone, because Ray was down South in boot camp during World War II. Pop saw baby Peggy briefly and then went off to Germany. Marge kept the home fires burning until he returned. Then came Kathy and Suzanne. Nana would recount how she dressed all three girls each afternoon, would greet Pop Pop at the trolley after work, and then sit up for dinner. Every night. That’s just the way it was back then. Life lesson: Sit up to dinner with your family.

When Pop went on strike, Marge again went out to work. Delaware County Memorial Hospital. When they interviewed her, they said she was a little too old to hire – it was the 1950’s – you could say that. But Marge pleaded, and so they gave her a shot. Life lesson: Be persistent.

She proved a terrific worker in the records department. Years later, when computers were first being introduced, the hospital told Marge they’d have to let her go for younger people “more apt for the new technology.” Nana’s response: “teach me, I can learn.” And so they did and so she did. Life lesson: Don’t be afraid of change or learning something new.

Nana was a good friend. Her dearest one was Doris Mason. They raised their families together, just two doors apart. She liked to say that Doris and she never had a fight. “What was the secret to a successful friendship?,” I asked one time. Nana said it was because they lived two doors apart rather than right next store. Life lesson: Fences make good neighbors. Nana said her and Doris laugh a lot, never held grudges, kept a secret, and always respected each other’s privacy.

Through the over 50’s club and her Canasta group, Nana had many friends. People loved Marge. And she loved people. But at the end of the day, it was her and Ray. A couple in every sense of the word. In the best sense of the word. Life lesson: There’s nothing more valuable than a good friend; and at the end of the day, your partner is your best friend.

Like most families, the holidays were spent with Nana and Pop Pop. Christmas rotated between the three daughters. It always made the holiday extra special when you learned that this year was your families turn to have Nana and Pop. We were always a bit deflated to learn that it was another families turn. After dinner, the Fishers, Gallaghers, and Dunderdales would gather at Nana’s for dessert. There we would get the Christmas envelope. It was not a lot of money, but it was tradition. And if a family friend joined us for dessert, there was always an envelope for them. Everyone was welcome at Nana’s, everyone part of the family.

Easter dinner was always at Nana’s house. We used to joke and even complain that it was the same menu every year. Ham, Turkey, potato salad, and of course Mrs. Dunderdale’s coconut Easter bunny cake. What we wouldn’t do now for one more Easter dinner at Nan’s. And one more Easter hunt. There was even less money in the eggs than there were in the Christmas envelopes. But even as we got older, we loved the tradition. Quite a sight, college students running around for dollar-filled eggs.

Nana was strict. As kids, when we learned that Nana was coming to watch us while our parents were going away for a weekend, we were not happy. She didn’t take any nonsense. She’d threaten: “no fussin’ or you’ll get a lickin.” Of course she never did give us a lickin’, but the fear was enough to keep us in line. The three sisters say she was even stricter as a Mom. We found that hard to imagine. But you always knew Nana loved you, and she obviously knew what she was doing, evidenced by the wonderful daughters she raised.

A Eulogy about Nan would not be complete without mentioning “the shore.” Nana instilled in all of us a love for the shore that carries on to this day. The list of shore traditions are too many to mention all of them. But they all can be traced back to her and her generation. Crabbing, Hor d’ourves night, the boardwalk, donuts in the morning, and the grand daddy of them all – Groffs. Nana went there as a child herself, and now, three generations later, we all still go, faithfully. I’m sure there will be a fourth and a fifth generation. Great portions, great price, great food. And those pies! As long as we’re still eating at Groffs, we’ll never forget about Marge. The two are one in the same.

A shore tradition I associate strongly with Nana is Kohr’s ice cream. As children, she would buy us one, but she wouldn’t buy herself one. Instead, she would as for a lick from each of us. Well a lick from Nana was half the cone. I soon learned to get our ice cream and then stay as far as away from Nana as possible. Another favorite memory was seeing her and Pop sleep in the same twin bed. Beds were always short, and Nana would say, we don’t mind at all.

Nana was not one to talk about death. She feared it, as most of us do. When it would come up, she would change the subject. But the last time I saw her, the day before I left for my trip, the fear was gone. I knew it would be long. When I told her I was going a way for a while, she asked for how long. When I told her three weeks, her reply was, “well we should talk then.”

First she told me to kiss her. I did, and then she said, “that was nice, how ‘bout twice?” So I did again. She commented how wonderful everyone has been and thanked me. I told her it was us who should be thanking her. She told me that she was tired, and I told her that she could go whenever she was ready, that she had done real good. She asked, “do you think?” I replied, “I know you did.” She told us to take care of Ray. I told her we would, that that’s what families do is take care of each other, and that she had taught us all that. She then instructed us to let Pop wipe the counters as much as he wanted – that it would “keep him busy.” If you don’t know, Nana would often chide Pop for wiping the counters too often.

We sat for a while in silence and then I thought she said again, “Kiss me.” I said, “you want more kisses.” And she said, “no MISS ME.” I started to cry, but she did not. She just gazed at me, lovingly, with no sadness. And then she went on to say it several times. “Miss me. Miss me. Miss me.” I told her I would. That we all would, every day. That we could carry her in our hearts always. More silence. And then, the most extraordinary thing happened. Out of nowhere, she sang ten words. “I’ll be seeing you, in all the old familiar places.” Neither of us could remember the rest of the song, so we just hummed the tune. She then fell off to sleep and I just held her hand. I thought back to the time I the opportunity to meet Peter Yarrow from the famed folk group “Peter, Paul and Mary.” Retired now, he goes around with his guitar to nursing homes and sings with people on their deathbed. He told me that in the very end, there is one thing left. Only on thing that matters. And that is love. And perhaps, he said, if you’re lucky, a song on your lips. Nana gave me both love and a song that last time I saw her. As a musician, it was a gift I’ll always treasure. Perhaps she gave similar gifts to others at the end. I hope so. But if she didn’t have the chance to give it to you, I’m quite sure her words were meant for all of us to hear.

In South Africa, there is a very special word. Ubuntu. It means, “A person is a person through other people.” In other words, as humans, we cannot realize our humanity; we cannot reach our full potential as a human being, except though our relationships with others. It means that a successful life is not measured by how much money we have, how big our house is, what we achieve as an individual. A meaningful existence can only be achieved by our connectedness to family and friends. By this measure, Marge had an extraordinarily successful life. As a daughter to two. As a friend to many. As a sister to three. As a mother to three. As an aunt to at least ten. As a grandmother to fourteen, and a great- grandmother to twenty-four. And, of course, as a wife and soul mate. To just one. Ray.

How miraculous then, that even though I’m 10,000 miles away, Nana is here. As I witness Ubuntu everywhere I go in my travels here in South Africa, I am reminded of her. I see her beautiful face in the beautiful people all around me. I hear her strong and loving voice in the enthralling singing around me. I feel her beautiful presence in the breathtaking nature around me.

Thank you Margaret Catherine, Marge, Margie, Aunt Marge, Nana, Matriarch of our clan. Thank you for your beautiful life. I was profoundly honored to be your grandson, as I know everyone here was honored to play a part in your life. You are with us – always.

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Nelson Mandela Day and the vistas on the way to Pretoria

Nelson Mandela’s birthday began differently depending on which choice each boy made. The boys had the option of sleeping in and shopping, or getting up at the crack of dawn and doing a fourth game drive. A little more than half the boys (and adults!) chose to sleep in, and the rest went out for one last shot at racking up the big five. Although we did not see a leopard (some did on an earlier game drive), we were treated to another beautiful African sunrise, elephants, giraffes, baboons, a vulture, several eagles, some very cool birds, and the cutest warthog ever – if warthogs can be cute.

KSB SA 2011-Another Sunrise Safari

View the Photo Gallery on Flickr: Another Sunrise Safari – July 18

After a leisurely afternoon of shopping at the camp store, we headed to the Convention Center for our early afternoon concert.

The Convention Center at Kruger has to be the only convention room in the world that has a great acoustic. Normally, these venues are a nightmare for a choir: ceilings that are too high or too low, no shape to the room that allows for the science of acoustic to do its magic with the overtone series. But this room had gorgeous African wood walls that created a cathedral like sound.

The concert began with speeches by VIPs of the Park, and was followed with a performance by the Kruger National Park Choir and traditional African dancers. We then sang a 40 minute program that was very well-received. As a finale we sang South African folks songs with the Park Choir, including one called, aptly, “Nelson Mandela.” The song thanks Mandela for bringing peace. It’s great fun, and we’re bringing it back to the States to sing it for our audiences back home.

The Park hosted a dinner afterwards with both choirs and the VIPs. And, as usual, the room broke out into song and dance. You’d have to be in the room to witness it. Everyone, including the servers, the chaps, the VIPs (even Fitz) get caught up in it. Picture a room with everyone joining in, singing, clapping, and stomping. One of the Grads described it as a “folk song mosh pit.” I’m not sure I know what mosh pit is, but it sounds right.

On their return to the dorms, the boys had to pack their bags and have them checked before they could go to bed.

KSB SA 2011-Madiba Concert Day

View the Photo Gallery on Flickr: Madiba Concert Day

This morning we were up at the crack of dawn to head to Pretoria. On the way of the park, we were treated with a few more sightings: baby elephants, some kudos, and too many impalas. “Impala to the rrrrrright, Impala to the leeeeeeeft.” (ask your sons)

On the way, we were treated to thrilling vistas: God’s Window, Blyde River Canyon (third largest in the world), and Striidom Tunnel. Words won’t do any of the justice. I encourage you to look them up on line, and know that your boys took it all into today. When young people are impressed by landscape, you know it’s got to be good.

We just watched a stunning sunset. We’re three hours late for our homestay rendezvous in Pretoria. Police activity, road work, lost bus drivers and other tour moments have held us up along the way. Hopefully our hosts will be understanding. To add insult to injury, the boys have to ask their homestays to do laundry. The state (and smell) of their clothing is truly scary.

For a whole host of boys, this is their first international homestay with KSB. They’re excited and nervous. We are coaching them on how to have a successful one.

More later…

P.S. Our wonderful photographer, Laurie, is doing informal portrait photos of all the boys. We started with the day of the Drakensberg concert. All portraits will be collected on another page – when internet time permits.

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from Steve’s original post:
“On the way, we were treated to thrilling vistas: God’s Window, Blyde River Canyon (third largest in the world), and Striidom Tunnel. Words won’t do any of the justice. I encourage you to look them up on line, and know that your boys took it all into today. When young people are impressed by landscape, you know it’s got to be good.”

KSB SA 2011-Blyde River Canyon

View the Photo Gallery on Flickr: Blyde River Canyon

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Nelson Mandela asks his fellow South Africans to do 67 minutes of service on his birthday. With this concert tour, KSB set out to do 67 minutes of musical service in every city. One of the ways we’re accomplishing our goal is to bring our music to people who don’t have the means to travel to a formal venue and enjoy a scheduled concert.

Our wonderful PR and recruitment chair Angela was to arrive in South Africa a few days before we were to arrive in the Kruger area. So I asked her to dig around the nearby city of Hazyview and see if she could make some connections with the locals. Did she ever! Special thanks to her for her terrific scouting, which resulted in two special singing opportunities on Sunday.

The day began at 5am. We dressed warmly and boarded our open-air vehicles for our third game drive. In addition to amazing game sightings, we were treated to an African sunrise – beautiful! This was on the heels of the an African sunset on the previous day’s game drive, and the day before that, the most magnificent full moon rise you can imagine. The weather has been gorgeous here, especially for winter. We’ve been spoiled with relatively moderate temperatures, no rain, and clear skies for breathtaking astrological viewing. Have I mentioned the stargazing? Millions of them have been twinkling above us at night. On my night drive jeep, we shut the lights of the vehicle down so that we were in total darkness except for the shimmering points above us. A sight to behold – unfathomable really, just how small we are in the universe.

View the Photo Gallery on Flickr: Sunrise Safari – July 17

After breakfast we headed to a hotel in Hazyview where we sang for folks enjoying an outdoor Sunday brunch. It was one of these unique concert settings that, with some space and programming creativity, provides for an intimate, charming performance. We moved about the venue, and luckily no boys fell in the pool, although there was one close call. (Me! – the boys would have paid to see that)

The audience was an entirely privileged, white South African audience. It’s important that we sing for all kinds of audiences while we are in the Rainbow Nation. When I speak about our purpose here to a white audience, I make it clear we are not here to sit in judgment of their past. After all, we have our own sad history of race in our country. Our journey to equality for all Americans no matter their walk of life is one we’re still on. We are simply here to marvel at this great man who personifies tolerance, freedom for all, and peace. When we sang “I need you to survive,” a few boys went to each and every table. I pointed out that it’s a song that was written in response to September 11th and, as we approach the 10th anniversary of that sad day, we dedicate this song to all those who lost their lives, those who saved lives, and those around the world that stood with us in those dark days. There were not many dry eyes.

View the Photo Gallery on Flickr: Hazyview – First Half

After the concert the boys were treated to a sumptuous lunch. FYI: this was not the 67 minutes of service part of the day. This was the 67 minutes of a plate piled high of delicious food, followed by seconds, followed by thirds for some (Grads were in heaven), followed by dessert table you’d find at Le Bec Fin. On tours, it can be feast or famine. Seconds are not always a given, so you gotta fill up when you can.

To thank the owner of the hotel for his hospitality, the Chamber Choir made a small circle around his and his family’s table and sang “Prayer of the Children.” He wept, along with his family. He said that in the 50 years his family has owned the hotel, this was the most beautiful moment he had ever experienced. This is the power of music.

But the best part of the day was yet to come. We then headed out to a nearby township. It had a different feel than Galeshewe. More rural. More simple a lifestyle, if that’s even possible. The first image I saw was a not so small child sitting in a tiny bath tub having a wash in front of his house, waving at us with a big smile. It seemed like everyone in the township waved us in. It’s quite possible that this was the first time ever that two buses full of foreigners came thru their humble but spirited neighborhood.

We arrived at the local school, and a throng of folks appeared out of nowhere. Our venue – the courtyard of the school. We entered into the intimate, kraal-like, performance area singing one of our new South African pieces and the crowd positively beamed with biggest, brightest communal smile I’ve ever seen. South African women were ululating, and throughout the performance, they would spontaneously stand and dance in front of the boys in praise of our singing. At one point, one woman came at me with a chair over her head. I was ready to embrace whatever the tradition was that involved a chair, but was relieved to watch her simply sit down in it, do a kind of chair dance, and then promptly walk away. Another women who seemed like the matriarch of the community sat in front and sporadically got up and danced. Loved her. And I love watching the boys watching the audience as they sing. They beam as well, with smiles of total amazement at the joy with which these people not only receive our music, but make it with us. Smiles are not great for vowel unification, but it’s worth the trade off.

We opened the concert by all singing Nkosi Sikeleli and I’m quite sure every chaperone was crying by the end. After a few Americana pieces, which they absolutely loved, we were treated to some traditional dancers. We like to say that tour is a comprehensive education for the boys. Certainly it was an education for all of us when the boys “discovered” that it is “traditional” for traditional dancers to expose their breasts when they dance. (For disclosure: some boys also discovered during one of the game drives that baboons mate freely in the open 🙂

We finished our “mini-performance” with a few more of our most spirited pieces, and then sang “Happy Birthday” to Nelson Mandela. As a finale, we launched into a medley of South African pieces, both old and new. I told the boys to brace themselves as we broke into Shosholoza. Sure enough it was ubuntu pandemonium. I keep thinking we can’t reach a new high singing this song, but every time we sing it with black South Africans, time stands still in musical sublimity.

As we walked off singing and waving, the crowd followed us. This was the ‘Beatles’ tour moment that I always, for the boys, hope for. That moment where they feel like rock stars. Because in that moment, in the hearts of these people, they are rock stars in the best possible sense. South Africans of all ages were high-fiving and hugging and kissing your sons as we pulled away. Our new friends cheered us on as we pulled out, and once again a bitter-sweetness pervaded the buses. I’m sure not every boy could articulate it, but I sense that on some level they all grasp the irony: boundless joy amid devastating poverty.

KSB SA 2011-Hazyview - Second Half

View the Photo Gallery on Flickr: Hazyview – Second Half

Thanks again to Angela for putting the day together. And profound thanks to each and every adult on this tour. They’re all working hard to keep your boys safe and give them this extraordinary experience. I knew the trip had the potential to be life-changing, but one never knows how things will turn out. It’s everything I had hoped for and more.

More later…

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Saturday, July 16th was the boys’ first full day in Kruger. They rehearsed and went on an evening safari. Below is what they had to say about what they saw, but here is the day in pictures:

KSB SA 2011-Kruger Safari 1

View the Photo Gallery on Flickr: Kruger Safari 1 & Rehearsals

On my first safari game drive, I saw…

…two zebras necking. I did fine them because there is no romance on tour.
Mr. Fisher

…a billion Malibu [uhm, Sean? wrong Chevy] , a lonely lion and it was so crazy Son and we saw the eyes of a supposed lepoard. I saw the big four so far!!!! Sean

…6 lions, a lot of elephants, 2 leopards, some buffalos and a lot of impalas. Erik

…the cutest hyena cubs nursing and nuzzling their mother on the side of the road. Alex K

…impalas, an angry elephant, and lioness walking down the middle of the road like a boss. Also Mr. Hoenig. Nic H

…a bonanza of elephant crossing the road. One of them trumpeted at us. Austin

…a hyena, a large group of elephants, 6 or 7 lions, the eyes of a leopard, a hippo, a rhino, a buffalo, a vulture, and A PLETHORA OF IMPALA. (Inspired by Austin) “Handy” Andy V

…a rabbit. Dr. Eli

…some Lions, impala, and elephants… Oh my! Joe Mar.

…not much other than a white rhino, and plenty of glowing eyes. Spencer Sebastian

…our guide said that us spotting a leopard in the middle of the street was very rare. KaRon

…all of the big 5 animals on the first day, (elephant, rhino, leopard, lion and buffalo) Jason L

…green eyes in the distance, yellow eyes in a tree and munching in the dark. ROAR Minchonator

…hyena, 7 lionesses, at least 20 elephants, leopard eyes and so many impala GRRR Sam R

…impala on the left… Impala on the right… Impala on the left… Impala on the right… Clay

…leopards, lions, and buffalo oh my! Colman

…accidentally getting in between a group of elephants and one of the babies…. The mama and another started to rear back and trumpet with their trunks. By then, we knew we were in trouble and decided to get the heck out of dodge before we got into a hairier situation… haha it was fun! Andrew S

…a huge bird was perched on top of a tall tree and was staring right at us. Max Ho.

…getting to hold the spotlight on the night ride, and spotting EVERYTHING.!!!! De’Vonte

…a male lion was trying to find its female partner to hunt, and we heard it growl.
Rawr Konstantin

…remembering how Fitz said we might not see any of the big 5. We saw at least 6 female lions. The best part was when we almost got rammed by an elephant. Nick T

… a Hyena nursing four Hyena pups about five feet away from the Jeep. Jack

…a group of 5 white rhinoceros standing less than 30 feet away from the jeep. James

…a group of impala across the street from two lions- Jeremy

… sooo many impala…and 5 lionesses on the prowl! Sam V

…a mother elephant and her baby. The mom almost charged at our jeep! Brett

…a lioness walking along the road. As we got closer, we saw that her fur was matted. Our tour guide said she was near death and looking for road kill. Mike Z

… a lioness taking a night time stroll on a road. Jesse

…a magic rabbit it was in the road and it took us to a magical place. Jelani

…a lioness walking down the road. Pedro

…all five of the big five, including the leopard. Josiah

… a female lion less than four feet away from the van. Noah S

… the same two lions three different times. Jason N

… three elephants, a mom and her two babys Matt M (Justin Beiber)

… two hyenas with three babies less than a yard away. Ethan W

… two hippos nudging each other. Adam S.

… all of the big five in the first day. Theo

… a VERY angry hippo. Zack

… a very angry elephant that almost charged us, so we quickly drove away. Lol Patrick

… cute little hyena pups that kept yipping. Hunter

…a lioness walking down the road. Max Hal.

…a leopard. Malcolm

… a large male leopard walking down the road. Joey Magg.

… an elephant and it almost charged us. Cole S

…impala on the left, impala on the right, on the left, on the right… Laurie H

…baboons with adorable babies riding on their backs! Kidder E

…me——-Elephant. End. Adam B.W.

…17 elephants. Simultaneously. Thomas F.

…two elephants were several feet from our van, and the driver told us that they could easily flip the jeep. Andrew Po.

…a family of four hippos swimming in the river. Thomas C.

…animals that didn’t look like they did in “The Lion King.” Jeffrey S.

…a charging elephant that wanted to flip the Jeep. Nicholas K.

…the beauty and power of nature. Sam P.

…an African Gray Heron—similar to the North American Blue Heron in shape and name. Torsten O.

…a Leopard disappearing into the brush. Ben H.

…the jackrabbit that wouldn’t get out of the way of our jeep for like 2 miles. Silly rabbit, roads are for cars! =P Dean B.

…the leopard that was watching me from a tree. Andrew Pi.

…a little gray bunny who stayed in the road in front of our car, and led us to a family of Rhinos. Isaiah P.

…monkeys fighting in the street with their little baby on their back. Mike P.

…15 elephants walking across the road and then eating branches on the trees. Deis

…nursing hyena mamma and her three squealing babies… loved when she got up to shake them off and one dangled for a few feet before she walked away. Mrs. O

…a kingfisher who posed for pictures while sitting on the railing of a bridge. Mrs. Case

…watching six hippos emerge from the grass to take a dip just after moonrise. Anne V

…a herd of elephants eating grass with little elephants too. Eric B

…seeing a hyena on the side of the road. Tai J

…seeing a lion walking next to us on the side of the road Noah G

…red eyes that everyone thought was a leopard but was, in fact, a bush baby. Josh B

…when an infant elephant came behind our open air vehicle, trumpeted, stomped and was almost about to charge us Tom K

…finding the hippopotamuses in the brushy grass. Nick V

… an orange moonrise so bright, we all thought it was the sun. Jimmy P.

…being surrounded by an entire herd of elephants. And the matriarch stopping in the middle of the road so our vehicle couldn’t move. Chris G

…seeing a baby baboon riding on its mother’s back was the highlight. It was hugging the mother and just watching our jeep. Alexis Paolini

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We arrived in Piet Retief by bus from Drakensberg an hour later than expected. This made for mad dash to our hostel, where we had to change and be at the venue ready to sing in an hour’s time. Thanks to our terrific staff and army of chaps, it was clock work. The boys actually got off the bus, found their rooms, got dressed, and got back on the bus in silence. Scary. As I’ve said many times, this sort of challenge is what I love about live performance and especially concert tours. Like in life itself, nothing goes smoothly, if something goes wrong, it will, and you have to be ready to roll with the punches, get down to business, and make it happen.

Our audience in Piet Retief was just lovely. This is a very conservative part of the country – a kind of Afrikaaner bible belt. They love Jesus first and foremost, but music is a close second. Apparently, the last time they had a visiting choir from oversees was 2003! The community was over the moon at our presence in their little town.

KSB SA 2011-Piet Retief

View the Photo Gallery on Flickr: Piet Retief

The format for the evening was unique. The concert opened with prayers by a local minister. He followed his scripture quotes with a “blond” joke. (He’s allowed one a night.) We then heard from the Highveld Youth Choir, who sang beautifully. At intermission we were given a bowl of beef and rice (lekker!), and then we came back and did a second half of our music. Boy did they eat us up. They gave the Grads a standing ovation after the very first piece they sang – which the Grads just loved as you can imagine. We also got a standing ovation after “Baba Yetu.” It was a love fest.

After the concert we went to the local Wimpy, the big fast food chain here. The wait and kitchen staff were stunned at the thought of serving 86 people an hour before closing. But they did it, and we treated them to a medley of old and new South African songs. Another tour moment. To see the entire Wimpy staff singing and dancing with us, beaming from start to finish, was an uber tour moment. The formal concerts have all been great, but these impromptu concerts are magical. You’d have to see it to believe it.

We’re now on our way to Kruger National Park. The boys are psyched. The vistas we’re seeing are other-worldly. It’s always an effort to keep the boys in the moment. Tour, and life, is a journey, not a destination. They’re so excited at the thought of seeing “the big five” in the wild that they could easily miss the live National Geographic show outside the bus windows if we let them.

Don’t worry, we’re not letting them.

KSB SA 2011-Piet Retief to Safari

View the Photo Gallery on Flickr: July 15 – from Piet Retief to Safari!

July 15th started with a “goodbye sing” to the folks at Piet Retief who hosted us and who rose extremely early to feed us. The ride through the South African countryside never fails to enchant all of us as we move from round-topped hills to flat-lands and from dried grasses to green pine forests to banana trees. The scorched roadsides (and the fires we saw everywhere) were finally explained to us. Farmed and grazed fields go right up to the edges of the 2-lane highways. If there were to be a vehicle accident which caused a fire, then entire farms and livestock would go up in smoke. The owner of the farm where the fire started would be responsible for the damage caused by the spreading fire. So, the farmers create a fire-break by burning a swath along every road or driveway. (There are no mowers). This both decreases the risk of fire, but also increases visibility along these roads.

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Wednesday morning we rehearsed again ourselves, and then rehearsed with the Draakies and the Saskatoon Girls Choir, who joined us for the concert that afternoon. The performance was a triumph. Larry Hoenig said it was the best concert of children’s choirs he had ever heard in his entire life. Anne Odland said it was the “shortest longest” concert she had ever been too. (Three hours! but delightful) The Draakies opened the concert, followed by the girls, and then us. The boys were nervous, as they had witnessed the excellent singing of one of the world’s great boychoir. Boy, I wish they got nervous all the time, because hey turned in a stunning performance. Nothing like a little competition to get the boys pumped. They were on their game in a way that only happens on tour. Singing together every day really allows us to take things to “the next level.” The director of DBC raved about “The Word Was God”, and had said earlier that day that our treble sound is one he admires. Quite the compliment. Oh, and the trebles sang “Ise the Bye” for the Canadians. They loved it.

KSB SA 2011-Drakensburg 2

View the Photo Gallery on Flickr: Drakensberg 2

The second half of the concert was largely the DBC singing their South African folk song set. Wow! The only thing you can say. The songs, the dancing, the precision, the color. It’s like nothing you’ve ever seen from a children’s choir. All the young singers from the US and Canada came down to the stage for the final song – what else but Shosholoza. It was quite a moment. We also sang “Hope for Resolution” and “I Need You To Survive” together. Usually, I’m not a fan of mass choirs. The singers are packed in like sardines and the music-making is not very tight. But the wonderful space allowed for lots of singers to have enough room to hear themselves and “let their bodies sing,” as I like to say. It was very moving.

After the concert, all the singers went to an island in the middle of a lake at the resort and had a traditional braai, along with a dance party. The adults were treated to a “Christmas in July” dinner at the resort restaurant. Our boys came in and serenaded the guests of the resort. They were a big hit singing “We Are the Boys,” “Praise His Holy Name,” and the South African medley.

KSB SA 2011-Drakensberg Concert

View the Photo Gallery on Flickr: Drakensberg Concert

The next day we departed our friends at DBCS. It was a great reunion from our short time together in Philadelphia, and we made an even stronger connection here in South Africa. Everyone agrees on both sides that this is a musical friendship that will continue for a long time to come. So much so that they’re taking the now-defunct Harlem Boys Choir arrow off their mileage post and replacing it with the Keystone State Boychoir. Yeah! Made us think back to our trip to Antarctica. I hope Alejo put our arrow up on their mileage post.

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Tuesday morning we began rehearsing our “10th Anniversary, Seven Continents Tour Medley,” arranged by Fitz especially for our B1K event. It’s going to be electrifying. We used the DBCS venue, which is a dream space – amphitheatre seating and built in choral risers. Fine acoustic. We ate our hearts out the whole time we were there. In the late morning “the Draakies,” as they are affectionately called, joined us for a rehearsal of Hope for Resolution and I Need You to Survive. Then we got an amazing invitation. The Draakies asked us to record “I Need You To Survive” with them that evening so that the song could be included in their upcoming CD. Of course we said yes.

KSB SA 2011-First Day in Drakensberg

View the Photo Gallery on Flickr: First Day in Drakensberg

For lunch we went into to the nearby town of Winterton to the Waffle Hut. BIG HIT. Especially the chicken waffles and milkshake special. The boys sang for the wait staff and it was joyous. This tradition of singing for the wait staff wherever we go has become my and many others favorite part of tour. That’s because the wait staff, always black South Africans, always join in singing and dancing with us. Look for the pictures. It’s heartwarming every time it happens, and it happens every time, everywhere we go.

Later the boys split into two groups, either playing soccer with the Drakensberg boys (Drakies) or going for a hike.

KSB SA 2011-Soccer at Drakensberg

View the Photo Gallery on Flickr: Soccer at Drakensberg

KSB SA 2011-Hiking in Drakensberg

View the Photo Gallery on Flickr: Hiking in Drakensberg

In the afternoon, we toured the school, played soccer with the Draakies (we only lost by one point), and some hiking, we had dinner at Dragon Peaks. South African cuisine is excellent, although our vegetarian boys are in the wrong country. Meat is a must at every meal. (Don’t worry vegetarian moms, they’re fine!) After dinner, we headed to the venue for our recording session. It went great and we think we have it “in the can,” as they say in the business. Recording requires a whole another level of focus and patience. It’s a valuable experience for the boys to have, as it prepares them for situations down the road in life where the pressure is on. The younger Draakies actually recorded the piece in their pajamas because it was past their bed-time. Now our boys want to sing in their sleep wear.

KSB SA 2011-Evening Rehearsal 7:12

View the Photo Gallery on Flickr: Evening Rehearsal 7/12

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The Draakies

Long bus rides and tour go hand in hand. We spent all day Monday “on the road again,” making our way east from Kimberley, to the Drakensberg Mountains in KwaZulu Natal. A main tenant of the tour bus ride is the rest stop. It takes good planning and serious chap power to make for a successful, safe stop. Areas of concern: safety in the restrooms, stopping the boys from stock piling bags of candy, chips, and ice cream, keeping them from getting in line at the fast food counters.

The scenery was gorgeous, especially as we entered Zululand – land of the great warrior Shaka. No wonder so much blood has been shed throughout the years to control this part of the country. The rolling hills, the peaks and valleys, peppered with the signature Zulu rondevels, the blue skies and cotton-like clouds make for a picture-perfect postcard wherever you look, for as far as you can see.

KSB SA 2011-Kimberley to Drakensberg

View the Photo Gallery on Flickr: From Kimberley to Drakensberg

Twelve hours later we arrived at the Drakensberg Boys Choir School in the evening and headed right for dinner at the Dragon Peaks resort restaurant, situated next to the Choir School. (By the way “Drakensburg” means “Dragon’s Peak” in Afrikaans.) Once our bellies were full, we did room assignments. Those boys who were in the hostel in Kimberley were given the cabins for three at Dragon Peaks. Great fun. Those who had the comfort of the homestays in Kimberley were assigned to the very spartan South African Air Force barracks on the property of Dragon Peaks. Of course the trade off to a cold hostel is the fact that the boys are all together in one place. I was not present, but heard of peanut butter and jelly pig-out at midnight in the cold under the African moon. Hostels and hotels always make for spontaneous tour moments, albeit they mean more work for the chaps and staff. It’s never easy getting them settled down and quiet for sleep. In this hostel, the boys had to go outside to the shower stations. Very, very cold. That which doesn’t kill us makes us stronger. I have no doubt that after the boys endure the South African winter for three weeks in hostels, they will be able to deal with anything life throws their way.

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